From ancient civilisations, to modern hip-hop culture, tooth decoration has a rich history spanning centuries.
It’s essential to recognise that tooth jewellery is not a hot new trend - it dates back to around 800 BCE!
Adorning teeth with metals and gems has evolved across various cultures through the ages.
THE HISTORY OF TOOTH GEMS
THE HISTORY OF TOOTH GEMS
THE ESTRUSCANS
200BCE - 800BCE
The Etruscans were actually the pioneers of using metal on their teeth to signify wealth, contrary to the misconception that the Egyptians were the first!
Originating in the Tuscan region of Italy between 800BCE and 200BCE, the Etruscans would bind teeth together with gold wire, no thicker than a rubber band.
The oldest known example of this practice dates back to 7BCE, and belonged to a wealthy Etruscan woman. Her healthy teeth were intentionally removed, and then welded together with gold bands. This intricate work wasn’t performed by dentists, but by skilled goldsmiths.
The Mayans
300BCE - 900BCE
The Mayans soon followed, adorning their teeth with jade, turquoise, gold and hematite.This involved drilling holes in to the teeth and using adhesives like plant sap to attach the jewels.
From about 300BCE to 900BCE, the Mayan empire spanned what is now Mexico and parts of Central America.
Mayan kings, queens, and other nobility would drill holes up to 3mm wide in their teeth and insert jade. The lighter the jade, the wealthier the wearer.
These gems symbolised their responsibility for life-giving rains, fertile crops, and the prosperity of their people.
While enhancing their appearance, these adornments were also a profound statement of their role and influence, far beyond mere fashion, symbolising social status, wealth and spirituality.
It was also believed that adorning their teeth with gems would bring them closer to their gods.
ASIAN CULTURE
MUGHAL PERIOD
Throughout history, tooth jewellery has been evident in various cultures worldwide.
In India, traditional brides often wear gold or silver tooth jewellery as part of their bridal adornment, reflecting intricate designs and symbolising marriage prosperity.
This practice gained popularity during the Mughal period (16th to 18th centuries), when Mughal emperors and nobility adorned their teeth with diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones to signify power, beauty and luxury - influenced by the empire’s love for opulent jewellery.
Similarly, in some Middle Eastern cultures, decorated teeth indicate status and beauty.
Archaeological evidence shows that tooth embellishment has been practiced in China, India and Southeast Asia since ancient times.
YIN AND YANG
In ancient China, tooth gems were linked to the concept of Yin and Yang, symbolising harmony and balance. Chinese royalty and aristocracy adorned their teeth with precious gems such as jade, as well as gold and silver, to display wealth and social status.
These dental adornments also served as protection against evil spirits, bad luck, and dental diseases.
PHET MAE SOM / SOM FAK
In Southeast Asian countries like Thailand, Indonesia and Malaysia, tooth gems have a long history of use. Women in these regions commonly wore tooth gems as a form of self expression and beauty enhancement.
Traditional Thai tooth gems, known as ‘phet mae som’ or ‘som fak’, were made from gold or silver and featured intricate designs.
Dental decoration was considered an art form and an essential aspect of traditional Thai beauty practices.
OHAGURO
In a tradition known as ‘ohaguro’, Japanese aristocrats would dye their teeth black upon reaching puberty, symbolising health, beauty, and status.
This dye was created by dissolving iron filings in vinegar, and was also believed to preserve teeth by preventing yellowing and decay.
It was thought to make women appear more attractive by creating a contrast that made the face look whiter, and enhance their delicate features.
Additionally, blackened teeth were seen as a sign of loyalty, as women endured the long and painful process of applying the blackening solution.
FILIPINO MYTHOLOGY
In the early Philippines and China, gold grillz were seen as symbols of divinity. In Southeast Asia, gold was believed to connect individuals to cosmological forces.
In ancient Filipino mythology, Melu, the creator of the world, was said to have pure gold teeth.
When Chinese explorers encountered a “fierce tribe with gold-pegged teeth” in the Philippine mountains, they unknowingly documented one of the earliest records of cosmetic dentistry.
Archaeological evidence suggests these gold-pegged teeth were crested by hammering gold plates in to the mouth.
MING DYNASTY
Skulls unearthed from the Ming Dynasty reveal that people of that era enhanced their teeth with intricate gold fish scale patterns.
THE 1970S
Grillz largely faded from fashion until the 1970s, when people began using gold to replace missing teeth.
This practice was especially common among underprivileged Black New Yorkers and West Indian immigrants, who contributed significantly to today’s popular styles and music.
Original a dental necessity, the metal-covered look evolved in to a fashion statement, particularly embraced by rappers of the time.
1990S - PRESENT
Not long after the inception of hip-hop, grillz became known as one of the genre’s best and most excessive status symbols. And throughout the ‘90s, these got more and more creative.
Tooth bling took a more subtle turn in recent years with the reintroduction of tooth gems in the late 1990s and early 2000s.
This trend was propelled by celebrities, particularly pop singers and hip-hop artists, who showcased tooth gems during performances and public appearances.
The trend quickly spread throughout the fashion industry and gained mainstream attention.
Tooth gems have now become widely accessible and popular, embraced by people of all ages and backgrounds as a unique form of self expression. Whether for a special occasion like a wedding or a festival, or simply to add a touch of every day sparkle to your smile, tooth gems offer a fun and temporary way to enhance your teeth.
Thankfully, we no longer have to drill holes to set tooth gems, as was the case many years ago! And long gone are the days of nail glue and Claire’s finest crystals. With the increasing demand for temporary tooth bling, more and more technicians are now offering professional tooth gem services.
Unlike applying a DIY kit at home, technicians today are trained to the highest standards to ensure a safe and effective application process. Visiting someone who is trained and insured is very important, which is why it is essential to choose a reputable service provide that specialises in tooth gems to ensure hygiene and expert techniques are carried out.
So next time you’re getting your tooth gems professionally applied, why not sit back, relax, and think about the history behind this not so new ‘trend’.